Tokyo Fashion Week: Runway

Here are some of the shows that Style and Beauty Editor, Laura Pollacco attended for CONNECT Magazine at this year’s Summer/Spring 2019 Fashion Week.

Kotohayokozawa

Set against an ever changing backdrop, Kotohayokozawa produced a fascinating ‘60s-inspired collection filled with oddities and quirks. Models wore not only clothes, but also carried down an assortment of accessories ranging from a boot filled with dirt and flowers to a foot brace that made me genuinely wonder whether the model had had an accident or whether this too was part of the outfit. Though the outfits’ inspiration came from various ‘60s trends, it was as if the designer had chopped up and reassembled them into a Frankenstein mash-up. Trousers were held together by a few threads, coats were missing one sleeve, and in one outfit, a full T-shirt hung from the waistband of a skirt. This show was an interesting example of deconstructed fashion with a nostalgic feel.

Malamute

Mari Odaka’s ninth collection at Tokyo Fashion Week, titled ‘Uncertain Memory,’ took inspiration from the 2001 Christopher Nolan film “Memento.” By creating garments that were frayed and beginning to unwind, she seemed to show the film’s protagonist's own struggle with his mind and his sense of identity. Odaka sent models down the runway sporting writing along their chest and neck in reference to how, in the film, Leonard Shelby tattoos himself to fight his short-term memory loss. This collection is about how one defines oneself, and through the blending of different elements, different fabrics and styles, we can establish a sense of self. Odaka is famous for her knitwear design, and it was obvious in this collection. The knitwear was the standout of the show, showing its versatility and ability to flatter the female form.

Ksenia Schnaider

Husband and wife duo Anton Schnaider and Ksenia Schnaider brought their denim designs from Kiev to Tokyo where they showcased a tropical resort-themed collection. Many of the outfits utilised double denim, which gave much of the collection a sense of being a throwback to early noughties fashion. In one instance, a model sported a pairing of white denim high-waisted shorts and a cropped white denim jacket. Another outfit consisted of a fantastic pair of flared jeans with fraying hems up the entire outside seam teamed with a jacket that was also frayed around every edge. This entire collection felt very much like a re-imagining of vintage resort clothing with models wearing denim bucket hats and denim gilets with oversized pockets; but with the addition of deliberate fraying and acid-bright colours, it was modern and energetic.

Meagratia

The stage was well and truly set before the models even stepped foot on the runway. The space was transformed into a whimsical herb garden. Dried flowers and herbs hung from above, filling the air with a relaxing fragrance, and the sound of running water and wind chimes was heard in the buildup to the show. The raised runway was made from plywood, adding to the rustic nature of the setting. The models were youthful and were covered in fantastic flower creations that adorned their face and hair. The tone for the collection was soft and understated; the colour pallette was fairly neutral with soft greys, blues, and beiges with the occasional floral print. The clothes were minimalist and non-confrontational. Unlike many of the other shows where clothes seemed to shout out, this collection should be praised for its simplicity.

All photographs taken by Laura Pollacco.

To see the originally published article please visit the Connect Issue it is featured in here.